Skip to content

Best Halibut Baits: How to Rig, Scent and Fish Them

Originally published in July 2013, this guide to the best halibut baits was fully updated in 2026 with expanded bait, rigging, scent, and troubleshooting tips.

Choosing good halibut bait doesn’t need to be complicated. I look for two things above all else: a bait that puts plenty of scent into the water and one that’s tough enough to stay on the hook.

Over the years, I’ve had the best results with salmon heads, octopus, herring, and salmon pelvic-fin strips. Each has advantages, and which one I use can depend on what I have available, how long I expect to leave the bait down between checks, and how much trouble we’re having with smaller fish stealing it.

In this guide, I’ll explain how I prepare and rig each of these baits, how I use added scent, and what I change when we’re getting bites but aren’t hooking fish. For the complete setup—including where to fish, tides, tackle, anchoring, and fishing techniques—see the FishinBC.COM Complete Guide to Halibut Fishing.

Salmon heads used for halibut bait
📷 Photo: We save the heads from legally retained salmon for halibut bait. They’re my first choice because they put out plenty of natural scent and are extremely difficult for smaller fish to steal from the hook.

What Makes a Good Halibut Bait?

A good halibut bait needs to do more than smell good. It also needs to stay on the hook, especially when you’re fishing deep water or dealing with smaller fish that can pick away at softer baits.

Bait size matters too. Bigger isn’t necessarily better. I prefer a bait that’s large enough to put out plenty of scent but still compact enough for a halibut to take into its mouth without the bait interfering with the circle hook. When I’m fishing a circle hook, I make sure the point and gap remain completely exposed.

There is also an important consideration for B.C. anglers when choosing bait. Fisheries and Oceans Canada (DFO) states that recreational anglers may not waste fish suitable for human consumption. Fish offal can be used as bait, as can herring, mackerel, northern anchovy, and Pacific sardine.

That’s why I save non-edible portions from legally retained salmon, such as the heads and the sections around the pelvic fins, and do not use the edible portions of salmon or any other fish specifically for bait. You’ll sometimes see salmon belly strips recommended for halibut fishing, particularly in information from Alaska, but Alaska regulations are different from B.C. Always check the current DFO regulations before fishing.

Best Baits for Halibut Fishing

My first choice for halibut bait is a salmon head, followed by octopus or squid, herring, and salmon pelvic-fin strips. All four can be effective, but they differ in durability, availability, how much scent they put into the water, and how easily smaller fish can steal them. The sections below explain why I use each bait and how I prepare and rig it for halibut fishing.

When I describe how I rig these baits, I’m generally referring to fishing them with circle hooks. The same baits can also be fished with J-hooks, but I prefer circle hooks. B.C.’s halibut regulations require anglers to release fish that do not meet the legal size limits. J-hooks have a greater potential to hook a fish deeply, while circle hooks are designed to catch near the corner of the mouth, making them a better choice when a fish may need to be released.

#1 Salmon Heads

Salmon heads are my first choice for halibut bait. We save the heads from salmon we legally retain for halibut fishing. They put out plenty of natural scent and are extremely tough, typically able to stay on the hook for hours even if smaller fish are trying to nibble on them.

I prefer smaller salmon heads when I have them available. With B.C.’s current maximum size limit for retained halibut, there isn’t much advantage to fishing an oversized bait. A smaller head is easier for a keeper-sized halibut to get into its mouth and is less likely to interfere with the circle hook.

To rig a salmon head, I push the circle hook through the top of the nose, passing through both the upper and lower jaws so the mouth is held closed. Closing the mouth keeps the head more compact and prevents it from opening up and catching as much current. Make sure the point and gap of the circle hook remain completely exposed.

A 71lb historical trophy Pacific halibut resting on a metal dock cleaning table next to a blue layout scale from an era before modern size limits in British Columbia.
📷 Photo: Cleaning a halibut catch after a day on the water. When we’re also retaining salmon, I save the heads during fish cleaning for future halibut bait.

#2 Octopus and Squid

Octopus and squid are my second choice for halibut bait when I can find them for sale at a bait shop. I’ll use either one depending on what’s available. Octopus is tougher than squid, but both are durable baits that stay firmly attached to the hook. They aren’t as durable as salmon heads, so if I’m seeing signs of smaller fish picking at the bait, I’ll usually check it after about half an hour to make sure it’s still fishing properly.

I recommend using baits that are about 8–10 inches long. There isn’t much advantage to using an excessively long piece. Keeping the bait relatively compact makes it easier for a halibut to take the bait and helps prevent it from interfering with the circle hook.

To rig it, I push the circle hook through the flesh, wrap the bait around, and pass the hook through it a second time. This double pass helps keep the bait securely attached. As with any halibut bait, make sure the point and gap of the circle hook remain completely exposed.

I’ve seen firsthand that octopus is part of the natural diet of bottomfish. While jigging for lingcod in one location, we caught eight lingcod, and three of them spit up freshly eaten octopus.

#3 Herring

Herring is a classic halibut bait and one of the easiest options to find at coastal bait shops. It puts plenty of natural scent into the water, but it’s much softer than salmon heads, octopus, or squid. Smaller fish can pick a herring apart relatively quickly, so it needs to be checked more often than the tougher baits.

I generally fish the same store-bought medium-sized herring that I use for Chinook salmon cut plugs. Before using it for halibut, I like to brine the herring in a heavy salt brine to draw out some of the moisture and firm up the flesh. This makes a noticeable difference in how well the herring stays together on the hook. You can see the method I use in my Herring Brine Tips for Trophy Salmon Fishing article.

Occasionally we’ll catch a herring while salmon fishing, and these can be considerably larger than the medium-sized frozen herring we normally buy at bait shops. When we get one, I add it to the salt and save it for halibut bait.

For rigging a medium herring, I generally push the circle hook through the fish close to, but slightly behind, the head where there is enough structure to hold the hook. With a particularly large herring, I’ll often cut it in half rather than fish the whole thing. With the tail half of a very large herring, I may rig it so the cut face catches the current and gives the bait some spin, similar to a cut-plug herring. In either case, I make sure the point and gap of the circle hook remain completely exposed.

One of the reasons I like herring is the amount of scent it puts into the water. A whole herring already puts out plenty of natural scent, and it’s also an excellent bait for adding scent with an injector. I insert the needle into the belly cavity and inject scent inside the fish before lowering it to the bottom.

#4 Salmon Pelvic-Fin Strips

Salmon pelvic-fin strips are more of a backup bait for me than something I routinely save. If I don’t have many salmon heads available, I may save the sections around the pelvic fins when cleaning salmon. More often, they’re an option I keep in mind if we’re already out fishing and unexpectedly run short of halibut bait.

If that happens and we have a legally retained salmon in the fish box, I’ll cut closely around the pelvic fins, taking the fin, the tough surrounding skin, and only the small amount of tissue naturally attached to it. This gives us another piece of durable halibut bait without cutting edible salmon flesh specifically for bait.

The tough skin and fin give the bait some structure, while the small amount of attached tissue provides natural scent. I keep the piece relatively compact so it doesn’t interfere with the circle hook.

To rig it, I push the circle hook through the tough skin and make sure the bait is securely attached while leaving the point and gap of the hook completely exposed. Pelvic-fin strips aren’t my first choice when I have salmon heads, octopus, squid, or herring available, but they’re a useful backup when we’re short on bait.

Attracting Halibut with Scent

Scent is an important part of how I fish for halibut. The bait itself creates a natural scent trail, but I like to add additional scent to the bait and, at times, use chum to put even more scent into the water around where we’re fishing.

Choosing a Halibut Scent

I’ve used a variety of commercial halibut scents over the years, but I don’t think you need to get too caught up in finding one perfect scent. Products such as Pro-Cure Butt Juice, Smelly Jelly Halibut Feast, Pautzke Halibut & Rockfish Nectar, and Atlas Mike’s Lunker Lotion Halibut are all examples of scents made for halibut or other bottomfish, and you’ll commonly find products like these in fishing and bait shops along the B.C. coast.

I’ve also used liquid bait oils intended for enhancing crab and prawn bait pellets, such as North Pacific Prawn/Crab Oil, and sometimes pure herring oil is available as well. I’m more interested in putting plenty of scent into the water and maintaining that scent trail while we’re fishing than using one particular product. I’ll use a commercial halibut scent, herring oil, or one of the liquid bait oils depending on what I have available.

Adding Scent to Your Bait

I like to add a concentrated halibut or bottomfish scent to whatever bait I’m using. The bait already provides plenty of natural scent, but adding scent gives me another way to strengthen the scent trail.

I used to use plastic scent canisters threaded onto the leader above the bait. They worked, but I eventually stopped using them because they were messy. The scent and oil remaining in the canisters would leak into the tackle box after fishing, and cleaning everything up became more trouble than it was worth.

I now prefer using a Pro-Cure Magnum Bait Injector to put the scent directly into the bait. With a whole herring, I insert the needle into the belly cavity and inject the scent inside the fish. With a salmon head, I inject it behind the cheeks and into the head. For octopus, squid, or a pelvic-fin strip, I’ll apply scent directly to the bait and inject it wherever the bait is thick enough to hold some.

I don’t follow a set schedule for adding more scent. Instead, whenever I bring the gear up to check the bait, I’ll add some fresh scent before sending it back down. I do the same after catching a fish if I’m reusing the bait. It’s a good opportunity to make sure the bait is still securely attached, the circle hook is clear, and everything is ready to fish again.

Once the bait is underwater, the injected scent gradually works its way out and contributes to the natural scent trail coming from the bait. The injector is simple to keep on the boat, doesn’t add another component to the halibut rig, and lets me add scent exactly where I want it.

Creating a Larger Scent Trail

You can take the scent strategy a step further by putting additional scent into the water around your baits. One option is to attach a chum bag filled with fish offal and carcass remains to the anchor line. As the current moves past the boat, scent from the chum is carried downstream and adds to the scent coming from the individual baits.

Another option is to put a smaller chum bag on a downrigger and lower it close to the bottom. This lets you release additional scent at approximately the same depth you’re fishing rather than relying solely on the scent coming from your bait.

The objective is to establish a large scent trail beginning around the baits and extending down-current. A halibut that detects the scent may investigate and follow the trail toward its source, eventually bringing it within range of the baited hooks.

As with any bait used while fishing in B.C., make sure the contents of the chum bag comply with current DFO regulations.

How to Keep Halibut Bait on the Hook

Choosing a durable bait is only part of keeping it fishing properly. Salmon heads, octopus, and squid can stay on the hook for a long time, while softer baits such as herring need to be checked more frequently. Whatever bait I’m using, I make sure it’s securely attached without covering the point or gap of the circle hook.

I also avoid using more bait than I need. An oversized bait can make it more difficult for a halibut to get the entire bait and hook into its mouth, and any excess bait hanging beyond the hook becomes an easy target for smaller fish. A long octopus or squid tentacle, for example, can be nipped away at the end without the smaller fish ever getting close to the hook. Keeping the bait relatively compact helps reduce this problem while still providing plenty of scent.

Keep Your Bait Off the Bottom

Halibut are bottomfish, but that doesn’t mean your bait should be sitting directly on the seafloor. When I lower my gear, I let the weight reach bottom and then reel up enough line to lift the bait clear of it.

One reason for doing this is to keep the bait out of reach of crabs. If the bait is left sitting on the bottom, crabs may be able to steal it without giving you any indication at the rod. Keeping the bait suspended a short distance above the bottom still puts it where a halibut can find it while keeping it out of reach of crabs.

Use a Skirt as Backup

I often add a hoochie or skirt above the bait when fishing for halibut. I don’t always bother with one when I’m using a salmon head because the head is so difficult for smaller fish to remove, but I think it’s a good addition when fishing softer baits such as herring, octopus, squid, or a pelvic-fin strip.

The skirt adds some colour and attraction to the presentation, but I also think of it as insurance. If smaller fish manage to steal the bait before I check the gear, there is still a skirt fishing around the hook rather than leaving a completely bare hook on the bottom.

I like bright or glow colours such as white, pink, orange, and green. The skirt shouldn’t be so large that it crowds the bait or interferes with the circle hook. As with the bait itself, I want the point and gap of the hook completely exposed.

Check Your Bait

There’s little value in leaving a damaged or missing bait in the water. If I’m seeing signs of smaller fish picking at the bait, I’ll bring the gear up and check it. Herring deserves particular attention because it can be stripped from the hook much faster than a salmon head, octopus, or squid.

I also check the bait after catching a fish. If it’s still in good condition, I’ll make sure it’s securely attached, check that the circle-hook point and gap are clear, add some fresh scent, and send it back down. If the bait has been badly damaged, I replace it.

Troubleshooting Halibut Bait Problems

Even when you’re fishing good bait in a productive area, there are times when something doesn’t seem to be working properly. Before changing locations or completely changing your setup, I like to look at the bait itself. Its size, condition, and position on the hook can all make a difference.

Getting Bites but Not Hooking Halibut

If we’re getting good bites but aren’t hooking fish, one of the first things I look at is the size of the bait. A large salmon head or a long piece of octopus or squid may be more bait than the fish we’re encountering can easily take into its mouth.

I also check that the bait hasn’t shifted around the hook. The point and gap of a circle hook need to remain completely exposed. If the bait has folded over the hook or is packed too tightly around it, I’ll reposition it or reduce the size of the bait before sending it back down.

The way you respond to a bite is also particularly important when fishing a circle hook. Rather than setting the hook like you would with a conventional J-hook, the fish needs time to take the bait and load the rod so the circle hook can move into the corner of its mouth. I cover the complete technique in my guide to fishing circle hooks for halibut.

Bait Keeps Disappearing

When we’re watching the rods, we can usually see the small bites when smaller fish are picking at the bait. The problem is that halibut fishing at anchor can involve a lot of waiting. Summer days are long, and sometimes fishing at anchor presents a good opportunity for a nap while we wait for the textbook halibut sound—the “click…click…click…click…Zzzzzing” of the reel clicker—so we aren’t necessarily watching every rod every second.

This is where softer baits such as herring can disappear without you realizing it. If smaller fish are active, they may gradually strip the bait from the hook and leave you fishing with little or nothing.

If this is happening, I’ll check the bait more frequently or switch to something tougher such as a salmon head, octopus, or squid. A skirt or hoochie also provides some backup attraction if the natural bait gets stolen before you notice.

Herring Keeps Falling Apart

Herring puts out plenty of scent, but its soft flesh is also its biggest weakness as a halibut bait. If your herring is tearing apart while lowering it, coming back badly damaged, or simply isn’t staying on the hook for very long, try firming it up before fishing.

I like to put my herring in a heavy salt brine before using it for halibut. The salt draws out some of the moisture and firms the flesh, making the herring noticeably tougher and easier to keep on the hook.

Where you place the hook also matters. I push the circle hook through the herring close to, but slightly behind, the head where there is enough structure to hold it securely. Even when it’s brined and rigged properly, though, herring is still a relatively soft bait and needs to be checked more frequently than salmon heads, octopus, or squid.

Leader Keeps Twisting Around the Mainline

If you retrieve your gear and find the leader twisted around the mainline, the tangle most likely happened while the bait was being lowered. A salmon head on the drop creates a natural rotation, and if the leader is too long this can easily cause it to wrap around the mainline into a snarled mess before the gear reaches the bottom.

Once the gear is on the bottom and the current pulls the bait and leader away from the mainline, this is generally less of a problem. The important part is getting the rig to the bottom without the leader becoming tangled on the way down.

If this is happening, try shortening the leader or using a longer spreader bar to create more separation between the baited hook and the mainline. I generally use an 18-inch spreader bar with an 18–24 inch leader. If tangles continue, shortening the leader further is one of the first adjustments I’d make.

Your Turn

These are the halibut baits and methods that have worked well for me, but I’m always interested in what other anglers are using. If you have a favourite halibut bait, scent, or way of keeping bait on the hook, leave a comment below and share what’s been working for you.

5 thoughts on “Best Halibut Baits: How to Rig, Scent and Fish Them”

  1. Good video, thanks…I’ve got a tip for dealing with dogfish in the area, switch to a latge white grub, cut grub body in half and use it with your circle hook!

    1. Awesome article. Don’t know much about the halibut. But headed to POW. Out of Craig Alaska. Hope to find some fish to bring home. Any tips for the area please let me know

  2. Humpy tail the best bait u catch a fish jigging does it bite the tail r head the hook is at the tail on most hooks am I right

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *